Burgers are meant to be sloppier and uglier than a Lindsay Lohan paparazzi photo. Carl's Jr. tries to capitalize on this impulse with TV commercials of fake CGI ketchup splotching on people's shoes, but c'mon, those burgers are weak, and everyone knows you can't use those dainty tissues they give you out of a napkin dispenser to wipe up a real burger mess. At Superburger, owner Bill Cordell leaves plenty of things out on his horseshoe counter to both create and eliminate slop. In the creating department, he's got a slather-it-yourself bevy of mayo, mustard, ketchup, onions, relish, the works. There are also mammoth jars of jalapenos, ready to tantalize your tongue and accidentally fall half-chewed out of the side of your mouth. You gotta love the cleanup, though, as at every few seats on the countertop, Cordell's got huge, thick rolls of paper towels, ready for the sopping. He knows it gets messy. He refers to grease stains as "burger pride." He's keeping the spirit alive. 1501 Fourth St., Santa Rosa. 707.546.4016. Also now in Penngrove, 10070 Main St., Penngrove. 707.665.9790. -G.M.